Compost Classroom

Introduction
Compost Process
Types of Compost
Compost Soil
Compost Material
Glossary
Getting Started

Introduction

What is composting?

Composting, as defined by the EPA,  is “... the managed, aerobic biological decomposition of organic materials by microorganisms.”

In layman's terms, composting utilizes tiny critters to break down natural material into soil, making its resources available for reuse.

Why Compost?

A one-bin system relies solely on landfill use. While convenient, its long-term environmental costs are concerning.

  • A single-bin system misuses landfills by turning them into catch-alls for materials that still have value. When food scraps, yard waste, and recyclables are tossed in with regular trash, landfills fill up faster, shortening their lifespan. This results in costly expansions and increases in environmental risks like leachate contamination and methane emissions. Choosing composting reduces strain on local landfills.

  • Burying materials that still have value creates an imbalance in our nutrient cycles. Organic waste like food and yard scraps can nourish soil, and recyclables like paper and metals can be repurposed. Once in a landfill, these resources are lost forever, turning potential into pollution. Choosing composting returns resources into the soil for a strong, stable, and nutrient-rich foundation for growth.

  • Single-bin systems may seem convenient, but they come with steep long-term costs associated with costly landfill expansions, increased environmental management, and expensive methane mitigation efforts.

    Wasting materials also harms the systems that went into producing them, such as energy, water, labor, and transportation. Choosing composting is the last effort to recover resources to support new growth.

Compost allows us to manage our waste more efficiently and effectively. Just like recycling, we are rescuing our resources from the landfill to process them for reuse. The best part is that all composting is done locally, right here in Missoula, Montana! When composting, you:

  • Composting supports a circular system where vital and irreplaceable resources are again used to create nutrient-dense soils.

  • Food waste is the #1 cause of methane emissions from landfills. Composting reduces methane emissions, a greenhouse gas 28 times more potent than carbon dioxide, by diverting food waste away from landfills.

  • Microbes cultivated in compost soil capture and store carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. When we add nutrient-dense compost to soil, it is able to function as a living organism rather than barren, lifeless dirt. When our soil is flourishing with microbes, it can readily store carbon dioxide and maintain a healthy structure.

  • Compost soil increases soil stability, erosion resistance, nutrilizes PH levels, and increases its water and nutrient retention. View “Compost Soil” section to learn more.

Types of Composting

You may have heard that some items are okay for industrial compost and others are not okay for backyard compost, but what does that mean?

Different composting methods are used depending on what space, time, volume, and equipment are available.

Listed below are the most common types of composting you will hear about:

  • Industrial composting is large-scale composting for municipal and agricultural waste. It relies on chippers and consistant high temperatures to break down large volumes of organic material within 90 days.

    Industrial composting is strictly monitored to meet heat, time, and ratio requirements. This allows the community to safely compost meat, dairy, and bio-plastics.

    • WINDROW METHOD: Organic material is piled in elongated rows (windrows) that are periodically turned to maintain aeration and proper temperature. Garden City Compost uses the windrow method.

    • IN-VESSEL: Organic waste is placed in enclosed containers (e.g., drums or silos), where conditions like temperature, moisture, and aeration are tightly controlled.

    • AREATED STATIC PILE: Waste is placed in large piles with ventilation systems, like perforated pipes or blowers, providing oxygen without manual turning.

  • Backyard composting relies on bactieria taken through heat cycles to break down natural material. Temperature varies between 131–170°F during composting.

    Regular turning and monitoring are required to obtain proper oxygen and moisture levels.

    Backyard composting methods do no get hot enough to kill pathogens in meat and dairy, terminate weed seeds, or properly breakdown bio-plastics. These items should be excluded.

  • Vermicomposting relies heavily on worms to break down natural materials. It is generally faster and has no curing process required before it is ready for plant use. Temperatures range from 55-90°F.

    Meat, dairy, egg, and bio-plastic should not be vermicomposted.

  • Bokashi is a controlled anaerobic composting method. The waste ferments rather than decomposes. After fermentation, it’s typically buried to finish breaking down. It is primarily used for indoor composting.

    Meat and dairy can be safely composted using the Bokashi method.

Compost Material

What can be composted in Missoula?

Accepted Compost

Items are compostable when they completely break down into natural elements within 90 days, leaving no toxic residue.

    • Fruit & vegetable peels

    • Coffee grounds

    • Tea bags (paper only!)

    • Breads, grains, pasta

    • Dairy, eggshells

    • Meats, bones & seafood

  • Lawn Material

    • Grass clippings

    • Fall leaves

    • Branches

    • Garden debris

    • Weeds

    100% Paper Products

    • Napkins

    • Paper towels

    • Carboard (pizza boxes)

    !00% Natural Materials

    • Bamboo products

    • Sugarcane

  • We ONLY accept BPI or TUV-certified compostable products. This guarantees an item has been tested to completely break down, leaving no residues, within 90 days in the heated and microbial conditions of a commercial compost facility.

    Byproducts include water and a little CO2.

Not Compost

Items are not compostable when they don’t break down within 90 days, contaminate the compost, and/or create potential liability issues at the compost facility.

    • Plastic (bags, wrappers, utensils)

    • Produce stickers

    • Glass or metal

    • Rubber bands, twist ties

    • Styrofoam

    • Glossy or coated paper

    • Synthetic fabrics (e.g. polyester)

    • Diapers or sanitary products

    • Pet waste

    • Ash

    • Treated or painted wood

  • Any plastic product that has natural-looking symbols, claims, or irrelevant certifications is not accepted as compost.*

    *ONLY BPI or TUV-certified bioplastics are accepted.

Developing Your Compost Spidy-senses

Composting can be confusing, but just like anything else the more you do it, the better you will get. Developing compost senses can help sort compost on the spot. Knowing the basic qualities of compostable and non-compostable items can help navigate day-to-day items.

  • Natural Look: Items that appear natural (e.g., fruit peels, vegetable scraps, or leaves) are compostable.

    No Synthetic Materials: Avoid items that look shiny, plastic-coated, or overly processed, as they are often synthetic.

    Breakdown Signs: Items already showing signs of decomposition (like mold, softness, or discoloration) are compostable.

  • Fibrous Texture: Materials that feel soft, fibrous, or crumbly (like paper, cardboard, or plant matter) are usually compostable.

    No Slick or Waxy Feel: Avoid items that feel slick, waxy, or rubbery; these often contain non-compostable coatings or chemicals.

  • Earthy or Natural Aroma: Compostable items often smell like earth, plants, or food.

    No Chemical Odors: Avoid items with strong chemical or artificial smells (e.g., cleaning products, heavily dyed paper).

  • Crisp or Dry Sound: Dry organic materials like leaves or paper may crinkle or snap and are often compostable.

    No Metallic or Plastic Sounds: Items that clang, crinkle sharply, or are rigid may contain metals or plastics and are not compostable.

  • Edible Items: If it’s something you’d safely eat (e.g., fruits, vegetables, grains), it’s compostable.

    Non-Edible Natural Items: While you shouldn’t taste-test non-food items, if it's an untreated natural material like clean wood shavings, it's compostable.

Compostable Servingware

Using compostable serving ware is an eco-friendly alternative to traditional plastics because they are designed to break down into natural components in an industrial composting environment. Unlike conventional plastic that can take hundreds of years to decompose and contribute to environmental pollution, compostables offer a more sustainable option to single use serving ware.

  • Compostable serving ware is typically made from renewable resources such as cornstarch, sugarcane, potato starch, or other plant-based materials. Some may also combine these materials with biodegradable polymers.

  • While the terms "biodegradable" and "compostable" are often used interchangeably, they have distinct meanings.

    Compostable materials break down in a determined amount of time and leave no harmful residues in the soil.

    Biodegradable materials break down in an undetermined amount of time. It could be a few days, it could be 50 years. For this reason they are not accepted as compost.

  • BPI or the Biodegradable Products Institute runs tests on bio plastic to ensure that the compostables meet industry standards for compostability. There are other compostable certifications, but we like BPI the best because they have the most rigorous testing.

  • Compostable serving ware requires specific conditions to break down properly. Temperature needs to reach a certain level for a certain amount of time. This only happens in industrial compost facilities; backyard methods are not sufficient to break down compostable serving ware. 

    Compostable material cannot break down properly in traditional landfills.

It's essential to follow proper disposal guidelines for compostable cups and other compostable disposables. If placed in a landfill, they will not break down as intended; if they are placed in recycling, they will contaminate the waste stream.

Click Image to view PDF

Maintaining a Compost Bin

Curbside Composting is much easier than managing a compost bin from start to finish. However, the basic principles are the same for keeping a clean bin and smells down.

Unlike a backyard compost pile, the goal for your curbside bin is to both keep odors down and slow down the compost process. Here are some tips and tricks to follow:

  • Compostable BioBags or even a sheet of newspaper can help keep food scraps from sticking and cut down on cleaning. A piece of cardboard at the bottom of your bin will help soak up excess liquid and maintain the integrity of your bio bag during your use. You can purchase bio bags in store or online. 

  • Got a little extra freezer space? Store especially fragrant items like meat scraps or dairy in the freezer, and toss them in your bin just before pickup. You’ll keep smells down and avoid attracting bugs or critters.

  • A little airflow can go a long way. Don’t clamp the lid shut too tightly on hot days; ventilation helps minimize moisture buildup and funk. Anaerobic (no oxygen) bacteria are not only slower, but they also release gases like hydrogen sulfide, which smells like rotting eggs. Promote aerobic (oxygen)  bacteria by cracking the lid every now and then. The smell of oxidized decomposition is more mild and earthy, compared to non-oxygenated decomposition.

  • Fresh grass and foods heavy in moisture and rich in nitrogen decompose more quickly than their carbon-rich counterparts, like cardboard. Slow down the rate of decomposition and improve airflow in your bin by layering dry materials like paper towels, dead leaves, or sawdust between cut grass and food. 

  • Certified BioPlastic ONLY

    Increased events and gatherings in summer may also increase the amount of food-related plastic you're exposed to. Remember if it’s not compostable, it doesn’t belong - even if it’s little. Keep plastic fruit stickers, twist ties, and other trash far from the compost bin. This helps us keep our finished compost clean and ready for your garden. 

Balancing Compost

Good compost is all about balance! The right mix of “greens” and “browns” keeps your compost bin odor-free.

  • These are your wet, fresh, colorful, nitrogen-rich materials. They provide protein for microbes and help things heat up.

    Examples:

    • Fruit & veggie scraps

    • Meat & dairy

    • Grass clippings

    • Plant trimmings

  • These are dry, woody, or papery materials. They provide energy for microbes and structure for airflow.

    Examples:

    • Dry leaves

    • Cardboard & paper

    • Paper towels & napkins

    • Sawdust (untreated)

    • Shredded newspaper

    • Small twigs or straw

Balance compost in your bin by layering green and brown material:

  1. Start with a strong carbon base: Place a layer of cardboard or crumpled newspaper at the bottom of your bin. It absorbs liquid and keeps your liner from tearing.

  2. Add Greens: Food scraps, grass clippings, etc.

  3. Cover with Browns: Sprinkle a handful of shredded paper, a paper towel, or a scoop of sawdust/leaves on top. This absorbs odors, increases airflow, and balances the moisture.

  4. Repeat: Think of it like compost lasagna: brown base, greens, browns, greens, etc..

Balancing curbside compost is much easier than a backyard compost, but the ideas are the same. Don’t worry about ratios in a Missoula Compost bin, we will cover that on our end!

Remember: We don’t accept manure!

Aerobic vs Anerobic Bacteria

Microorganisms breathe just like us! Well, sort of.

Just like humans inhale oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide, many of the tiny organisms in your compost pile do the same. However, when oxygen is no longer avaliable, their non-oxygen breathing cousins come into play. These rugged wasteland ruffian bacteria still get the job done, just much slower with some dangerous side effects.

  • Microorganisms that require oxygen to live and function.

    Compost Conditions:

    • Thrive in well-aerated piles

    • Prefer warm, moist, and oxygen-rich environments

    • Break down organic matter quickly and efficiently

    Byproducts:

    • Carbon dioxide (CO₂)

    • Water (H₂O)

    • Heat - aka energy (raises compost temperature)

    • Produces the classic earthy smell of healthy compost

    Benefits:
    Faster decomposition, fewer odors, less harmful gases

  • Microorganisms that thrive in low or no oxygen environments.

    Compost Conditions:

    • Found in wet, compacted, or poorly aerated piles

    • Common in sealed containers or when materials are over-saturated or compressed

    Byproducts:

    • Methane (CH₄)

    • Hydrogen sulfide (H₂S)

    • Other odorous, potentially harmful gases

    Downsides:
    Slow decomposition, strong, unpleasant smells, and can kill beneficial aerobic microbes

Compost Process

  • First step in creating compost is collecting the right materials! When using Missoula Compost’s curbside compost service, you can easily collect all organic scraps in a designated green bin.

    We come by every week to bring your bounty to the compost site. Your natural waste travels no more than 10 miles to Garden City Compost, Missoula’s city-owned industrial composting facility (separate from Missoula Compost). Here it is turned into compost and distributed locally.

  • Breakdown happens through the work of microorganisms, mainly bacteria, fungi, and invertebrates that feed on the waste and break it down over time.

    In the early stage, compost heats up as aerobic microbes rapidly digest soft, nitrogen-rich materials. As the pile cools, slower-acting organisms like worms and fungi take over to finish the job, breaking down tougher items like stems and wood.

    The result, after several weeks to months, depending on compost method, is finished compost!

  • Compost aeration is the process of adding oxygen to the compost pile to keep it healthy and decomposing efficiently.

    Oxygen fuels aerobic microbes, which break down organic materials quickly and cleanly, producing heat and reducing odors. Without enough air, the pile can go anaerobic, slowing decomposition and causing strong, unpleasant smells and gases.

    Aeration can be done by turning the pile regularly, forcing air, using tools, and layering with bulky browns like leaves or wood chips to create airflow. Proper aeration helps maintain a balanced, active compost system that breaks down waste into rich, usable soil faster.

  • Curing gives compost time to finish breaking down any leftover materials and harmful compounds that are still active after the hot phase. Without curing, compost might still have ammonia, organic acids, or unstable nitrogen compounds that can "burn" plant roots or stop seeds from sprouting. It can also still be biologically active, meaning it might steal oxygen or nutrients from the soil as it continues decomposing. Letting it cure ensures everything is fully broken down into stable, plant-safe nutrients, making it safe to mix into gardens or spread around young plants.

  • Compost soil can be used almost anywhere plants grow; it’s commonly spread in home gardens, community gardens, farms, landscaping projects, parks, and even along roadsides.

    Compost improves soil health, adds nutrients, and helps retain moisture, making it valuable for growing vegetables, flowers, trees, and lawns. It can also be used for erosion control, land restoration, and in potting mixes.

Elements of Compost

  • Oxygen

    Bacteria play a vital role in compost, and oxygen determines what kind of bacteria are present. Oxygen is an important element to keep aerobic bacteria active and maintain a faster, cleaner, and more efficient composting process.

    Aerobic bacteria are good bacteria. They require oxygen from both the moisture within the compost and the surrounding air. As they consume and break down food scraps and yard waste, they deplete the available oxygen. If the compost isn’t aerated regularly, oxygen levels drop, and the environment becomes anaerobic.

    In anaerobic conditions, a different group of microbes takes over. Anaerobic bacteria, bad bacteria, are slower at decomposition and produce methane and other foul-smelling gases like hydrogen sulfide. These gases are not only unpleasant, but they also contribute to greenhouse gas emissions.

  • Water

    Water content is crucial for the production of high-quality compost. Microorganisms require a moist environment to survive and stay active. If the moisture content drops below 45%, microbial activity will significantly slow down or even go dormant, halting the composting process. Dry compost piles not only break down much more slowly, but they can also become dusty and ineffective.

    Maintaining proper moisture ensures that microbes can move, reproduce, and do their job efficiently.

  • Heat

    Microorganisms generate heat as they break down organic material in the compost pile. This natural rise in temperature is a sign that decomposition is actively occurring. When temperatures reach 90°F to 150°F, the compost is in its most efficient and active phase, often called the thermophilic stage.

    At this stage, heat-loving microbes thrive, rapidly breaking down materials and even destroying harmful pathogens and weed seeds.

  • Time

    1. Psychrophilic Stage (Initial Warm-Up)

    Psychrophilic (cold-loving) bacteria begin colonizing the pile. This initial stage sets the groundwork for the more intense breakdown to come.

    2. Mesophilic Stage (Moderate Activity)

    As temperatures rise, mesophilic bacteria take over. These microbes thrive in moderate temperatures and begin actively decomposing sugars, starches, and other simple compounds. This stage may last several days, depending on moisture, oxygen levels, and outdoor weather.

    3. Thermophilic Stage (High Heat Breakdown)

    Once the pile reaches about 110°F–150°F, thermophilic (heat-loving) bacteria become dominant. This stage may last several days to several weeks, depending on the pile size and maintenance. Thermophilic bacteria break down tougher materials like fats, cellulose, and proteins, while the high heat helps kill off weed seeds and harmful pathogens.

    4. Cooling and Curing Stage

    Once nutrients have been consumed, the temperature slowly falls. The compost enters the curing stage, where microorganisms finish breaking down more resistant particles, and the material stabilizes. This stage can take 1 to 3 months or longer, depending on conditions.

    After the compost matures into a dark, crumbly, and earthy-smelling material, it's safe and ready to use.

  • Balance

    To make rich, healthy compost, you need the right balance of carbon ("browns") and nitrogen ("greens"). The ideal carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is about 30:1 by weight. This balance fuels the microbes responsible for breaking down your organic waste.

    Carbon-rich materials (like dried leaves, cardboard, and paper) provide energy for microbes and help absorb moisture.

    Nitrogen-rich materials (like food scraps, coffee grounds, and grass clippings) supply protein that helps microbes grow and reproduce.

    What Happens When the Ratio Is Off?

    Too little nitrogen slows the composting process. Your pile will sit and dry out rather than break down.

    Too much nitrogen can lead to soggy conditions and the production of ammonia gas, which smells bad and can drive beneficial microbes away.

  • Exposure

    The more surface area a compostable material has, the faster and more completely it will break down. When you cut, shred, or tear your scraps into smaller pieces, you expose more of the material to air, moisture, and microbes.

    This increased exposure gives microorganisms more access points, allowing them to multiply rapidly and digest material more efficiently. As microbial activity ramps up, it generates more heat, attracting additional decomposers like fungi, beneficial bacteria, and invertebrates (e.g., worms and insects).

    Element icons from “Avatar: The Last Airbender”… with a few handmade friends.

Compost Critters

A large variety of small critters and creatures do the work to transform compostable materials into usable compost soil.

  • Microorganisms including molds, mushrooms, and yeast. Common in cooler temperatures. They specialize in decomposing woodier components of plant matter like cellulose and lignin. Found in leafy or woody materials.

  • Single celled organisms. Mesophilic bacteria thrive in moderate temperatures and do most of the work on sugars and starches. As they eat, they produce heat, raising the temperature of compost piles.

    The heat kills off the original bacteria and are replaced by heat-loving thermophilic bacteria that can survive up to 160 degree’s Fahrenheit. These bacteria focus on proteins, fats, and complex carbohydrates. This heat (above 131 degrees) successfully kills off much unwanted pathogens and weed seeds.

    Eventually thermophilic bacteria run out of material to eat and diminish, cooling the pile, and allowing fungi and mesophilic bacteria to clean up the job.

  • Mites, grubs, insects, spiders, slug, but most of all earthworms consume organic material and excrete nutrient rich matter. Compost with earthworms or red wiggler worms is called Vermicomposting. Worms help aerate the soil, consume organic matter, and act as a subway for microbes throughout the soil.

Compost Soil

  • Plants deplete nutrients from soil while they grow. The 13 mineral nutrients in the soil are dissolved in water and absorbed through a plant's roots. There are not always enough of these nutrients in the soil for a healthy plant growth. This is why many farmers and gardeners will use finished compost to supplement their soils.

  • Chemical and synthetic fertilizers are intense and short lasting. If too much is applied it can actually harm the plant by “scorching” the plants roots. Unnatural fertilizers don’t help improve soil overall health or life span, which limits their long-term effectiveness. The nutrients they provide are quickly drained away into nearby waterways.

    The natural nutrients from finished compost are into the soil slowly and steadily. The benefits last for longer than one season.

    Finished compost helps soils hold more plant nutrients by improving the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC). This allows nutrients to have stronger bonds within the soil, preventing them from being washed away.

  • Studies have shown that compost is able to help fight the spread of plant disease (e.g., Pythium root rot, Rhizoctonia roots rot chili wilt and parasitic nematodes) and decrease the losses of crops. Micronutrients and other critters in compost soil help to breakdown toxins that cause plant disease into harmless and consumable materials.

  • Compost increases quality of soil structure, air flow, and water content, leading to quicker establishment of new vegetation and decreasing soil erosion. Compost protects the soil's surface from wind and water erosion, increasing the infiltration rate, as well as reducing water runoff and increasing the surface wetness. It is vital to prevent erosion to safeguard waterways as well as maintain the efficiency and quality of the soil.

  • Using compost soil in landscaping and gardening increases the grounds ability to retain water by 2.5 times. Using compost soil reduces periods of water stress on plants and lessens the amount of water needed for healthy lawns, gardens, and houseplants.

  • If a soil becomes too basic or too acidic, plants can suffer from nutrient deficiencies or nutrient toxicities. Soil with a neutral pH level helps prevent plants from consuming environmental toxins, like lead and other heavy metals.

  • Compost reduces the soils bulk density and improves soil structure directly by loosening heavy soils with organic matter. Because of this, integrating composts into compacted soils can improve root penetration and turf growth.

How to Use Compost Soil

Compost is a fantastic soil amendment, but isn’t usually good soil on its own. It’s rich in nutrients and organic matter, but can be too dense, hold too much moisture, or lack the right structure for healthy root growth if used alone. That’s why it’s best to mix compost with existing soil to improve texture, drainage, and nutrient content. Blending compost helps create a balanced, well-aerated growing medium that supports strong plants without waterlogging or compacting roots.

  • To use compost soil as mulch, simply spread a 1–2 inch layer of finished compost around the base of plants, trees, or across garden beds. Keep the compost a few inches away from plant stems or tree trunks to prevent moisture buildup and rot.

    As mulch, compost helps suppress weeds, retain soil moisture, and slowly feed the soil as it continues to break down. It's best to apply compost mulch in the spring or fall, and you can top it off once or twice a year as needed.

  • To use compost in potted plants, mix it with other potting materials to create a balanced growing medium. Pure compost is too dense on its own and can lead to poor drainage or root issues. A good mix is 25% compost combined with 75% potting soil, coconut coir, or perlite for structure and airflow.

    You can also top-dress potted plants by adding a thin layer (about ½ inch) of compost on the surface every few months, this slowly releases nutrients and improves soil life.

  • To use compost on lawns, spread a thin, even layer, about ½ inch thick, across the grass. It’s easiest to apply compost using a rake, then lightly water it in to help it settle into the soil. You can do this once or twice a year, ideally in early spring or fall, when the lawn is actively growing.

    Compost helps improve soil structure, retain moisture, and feed the grass naturally over time. For patchy or compacted areas, aerate first, then apply compost to help revitalize the roots and encourage thick, healthy growth.

  • To use compost in gardens, start by spreading a 2 to 3 inch layer of finished, fully cured compost over your garden beds. Then, gently work or till it into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil to mix it well without disturbing plant roots.

    You can also use compost as a top dressing by spreading a thin layer around plants during the growing season to slowly feed them. For new garden beds, mix compost with native soil before planting to create a rich, fertile environment for seedlings to thrive.

Getting Started

Now that you are a compost expert, it’s time to start your compost bin!

Start!

Compost Glossary

  • The presence of oxygen.

  • The lack of oxygen.

  • he Biodegradable Products Institute (BPI) is a non-profit organization that certifies compostable products and materials in North America. BPI ensures that products labeled as compostable meet specific standards for composting in municipal or industrial facilities.

  • Carbon-rich materials such as dry leaves, straw, twigs, and cardboard. They are essential for balancing nitrogen in the compost pile.

  • The balance between carbon-rich materials (browns) and nitrogen-rich materials (greens) needed for stable compost. A typical ratio is about 30:1.

  • The process of cutting or tearing compostable materials into smaller pieces to accelerate decomposition by increasing surface area.

    Missoula Compost customers do not need to chop or shred material. This is done at the industrial compost facility.


  • The final product of decomposed organic matter that is rich in nutrients and used to enrich soil.


  • All compostable servingware is made from renewable resources. Required to break down in an industrial compost facility within 90 days without leaving toxic residues. 


  • A liquid made by steeping compost in water. It’s used as a liquid fertilizer for plants.

  • The final stage in the composting process. The material sits for a period (several weeks) to stabilize and mature before being used in the garden.

  • Microorganisms, fungi, worms, and insects that break down organic materials in the compost pile.

  • Nitrogen-rich materials like food scraps, grass clippings, and coffee grounds that help provide protein for the microbes that break down the organic matter.


  • The stable, dark, nutrient-rich material produced after composting. It's beneficial for soil structure.

  • Water content in the compost pile.

  • Polylactic acid is a thermoplastic (heat-softened) monomer (bonded atoms) derived from renewable, organic sources such as corn starch, potato starch, or sugar cane. Industrial composting conditions create chemical hydrolysis (water breakdown) followed by microbial digestion to degrade the PLA into the soil; unlike traditional plastics. 

  • Refers to heat-loving microorganisms that thrive at high temperatures (131–170°F)

  • TÜV is a global organization that provides inspection, testing, and certification services for a wide range of products, systems, and processes.

    The name "TÜV" stands for Technischer Überwachungsverein, which translates to Technical Inspection Association in English.

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